Vine Colorwork Crochet Sock – Free Pattern

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How about stepping up our crochet sock game with the Vine Colorwork Crochet Sock! This crochet pattern has a video tutorial to help you through those important steps. These may look knit, but I assure you, they are crochet.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure for more info.

If this is your first time making socks, and the colorwork feels intimidating, first try the Simple and Best Crochet Sock Pattern. I’ve spent months working on this sock and the instructions to get the best fit. I’ve also written a detailed post on socks, with a free printable sock size chart, check out How To Size Crochet Socks

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Continue reading on this post for the free crochet pattern, or purchase the downloadable pdf on Etsy or Ravelry.

Want to work with a sock in bulky weight yarn? I’ve got the quick & easy Bulky Crochet Socks that are just for you. Or check out this roundup on crochet & knit toe up socks.

Can’t get enough of the crocheted knit-purl stitch? Check out these patterns:

Crochet Knit Purl Free Pillow Pattern
Crochet Knit Purl Free Hat Pattern
Men’s Crochet Tie Free Pattern

What Are The Benefits Of Stranded Crochet Colorwork?

We want our socks to be colorful and feel great on our feet. When we are working two colors of yarn at one time, it will make our work a little bit thicker by nature. But to keep that flexibility in the fabric, it’s best to work our crochet colorwork with the fair isle, or stranded technique.

What this means is we will not be working over our yarn all the time. We will be ‘floating’ it on the back of our work which helps keep the fabric less stiff. It’s really easy to do, and we can also catch our floats as we go so there isn’t anything big enough to catch our toes as we put them in the sock. To read more about the different ways of doing colorwork visit Ways To Colorwork In Crochet.

Why Is A Nylon Blend Sock Great For Socks?

It’s really important to pick the right yarn when making a sock. We want it to last a long time and hold up to a lot of wear. And why wouldn’t we? If we spend time creating the sock, we want to get the most out of it.

Nylon is a strong and versatile fiber, it can hold up to some abuse. It’s also highly elastic so perfect for stretching something over our heel but will bounce back to stay in place. It’s perfect when blended with other fibers to add that strength and flexibility.

I’ve really enjoyed working with WeCrochet Stroll for these socks. With its blend of merino wool and nylon, it’s the perfect stretch for socks. This yarn line also comes in a twee, which I loved using for the blue pair of socks. These socks also look great in other options of yarns and colors too. Here are some substitutes I recommend:

Stroll Tonal (75% Fine Superwash Merino Wool, 25% Nylon)

Hawthrone Kettle Dye (80% Fine Superwash Highland Wool, 20% Nylon Fingering)

Hawthorne Speckle (80% Fine Superwash Highland Wool, 20% Nylon, Fingering)

And for those who might be allergic to wool try:
Comfy Fingering (75% Pima Cotton, 25% Acrylic Fingering)

Supplies for the Crochet Sock:

Crochet Hook:

Size 3.5mm & 2.5mm Hooks, or hook to obtain gauge

Notions:

2 Removable stitch markers if needed
Yarn needle to weave in ends
Scissors

Yarn:

WeCrochet Stroll Fingering
75% Fine Superwash Merino Wool, 25% Nylon, 231 yds/100g
Colorways: Treasure (Color A), Rainstorm Heather (Color B)
Also shown in Stroll Tweed North Pole Heather (Color A) and Midnight Heather (Color B)

Yardage:

Mid Calf Socks 375yds/343m) -2 Skeins of main color, 1 Skein of contrast color

Abbreviations/Stitches:

blo – back loop only
ch – chain
est st pat – established stitch pattern
rnd – round
sc – single crochet
ssc – split single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)

Gauge:

20 sts x 25 rows = 4×4 inches in established stitch pattern, see notes.
The stitches per inch is 5

Skill Level:

Intermediate Sock

Size:

This sock is meant to be crocheted for a custom fit to your foot. This sock can be tried on and adjusted as you go.
Instructions are for adult women’s sizes. The chart below is for referencing sock lengths for different sizes.

Notes:

Since this is worked continuously, it is helpful to place a stitch marker on the first stitch of each row.

These crochet socks use a fun stitch combination and are worked from toe-up. The heel is an ‘afterthought heel’ where we create an opening for the heel area and come back to work the heel last.

Special Stitches:

The established stitch pattern (est. st pat) is worked across an even number of stitches as follows: sc 1 in the blo, ssc next; repeat for number of stitches needed.

Split Single Crochet (ssc): also known as the waistcoat stitch.
This stitch is worked as single crochet but where the hook is inserted is the only difference. The hook will be inserted between the ‘V’ of the stitch.

Insert hook between the legs of the stitch (on the back of work the hook should be under the horizontal bar and between the upside-down ‘V’ shape as well), yarn over, pull up a loop to the height of a single crochet, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook. Keep your hands loose and comfortable. If your hands are starting to hurt, then the tension of the stitch is too tight. When entering the stitch, pull up the loop a bit more than you normally would, it will give the ‘V’ more space for the next round and make working the ssc comfortable.

How to Get A Custom Sock Fit:

This sock is meant to be crocheted for a custom fit to your foot. This sock can be tried on and adjusted as you go. If trying on the sock is not possible, or you are making these socks for a friend, measure the foot to determine how many stitches/rows will be needed in each section for the best fit. Each measurement below should be taken while standing, except for C.

A: Circumference for Leg:
Measure the topmost part of your leg, the thickest part, and where you would like the height of the sock.

B: Height of Leg:
From where you took measurement A to the top of the heel.

C: Circumference of Foot:
Measure where your foot is thickest. The actual measurement of the finished sock will be about 1/2 to 1 inch less than this measurement.

D: Instep:
Measure from the bottom of your toes to about 1 inch before the heel.

Learn More About Sizing Socks

Want to really dive into getting the best-sized sock? Head on over to this post on How To Size Crochet Socks for even more information including a FREE downloadable sock measurement chart.

Vine Colorwork Crochet Sock Video:

Vine Crochet Sock Written Instructions

Toe of Sock and Instep

Rnd 1: Using 3.5 mm hook and Color A, working inside the Magic Ring sc 8, pull ring closed, do not join as this will be worked continuously. Place stitch marker in the first stitch and move up each round. 8 Sts

Rnd 2: 2 ssc in each st around. 16 Sts

Rnd 3: ssc in each st around. 16 Sts

Rnd 4: 2 ssc in first st, ssc in next, *2 ssc in next, ssc in next*; repeat from * to * around. 24 Sts

Rnd 5: ssc in each st around. If making a baby/child size skip to round 10.24 Sts

Rnd 6: 2 ssc in first st, ssc in next 2 sts, *2 ssc in next, ssc in next 2 sts*; repeat from * to * around. 32 Sts

Rnd 7: ssc in each st around. For smaller foot circumferences increasing may stop here, or increase less on the next round.32 Sts

Rnd 8: 2 ssc in first st, ssc in next 3 sts, *2 ssc in next, ssc in next 3 sts*; repeat from * to * around. 40 Sts

Rnd 9: ssc in each st around. 40 Sts

Rnd 10: ssc in first, blo sc in next, *ssc in next, blo sc in next*; repeat from * to * around. This round creates the established stitch pattern. 40 Sts

Repeats: Repeat Round 10 until the sock reaches about 1 1/2” from the heel, it’s best to try it on and add or remove rows if needed. This creates the Instep, measurement D.

Please Note: This is a great time to customize the sock to your foot size, this example is for a foot circumference of 8 inches. Remember these will stretch a little as worn so it should be a little snug, but if it starts to feel too tight add increases by placing 3ssc into one stitch on each side. Don’t be afraid to change the stitch count for your foot. 40 Sts

Sock Gusset

Rnd 5-6

Work in the est st pat around. It’s perfectly fine if your stitch count is more or less, it simply needs to be an even number of stitches. 48 Sts

Slit the Sock for the Heel

Rnd 1:

This round will make space for the heel to work later. Ch 24 (or half the stitch count), skip 24 (or half the stitch count), work the remaining sts in est st pattern. 48 Sts

Top of Sock & adjusting for different heights

Rnd 1-5:

Please Note: For the first round across the chain sts, sc sts will be worked. If you have increased or decreased the number of stitches in the instep, the total stitch count must either be in repeats of 6 or 8 stitches for the colorwork. Adjust the stitch count in this section if needed. Continue to work in the established stitch pattern. 48 Sts

Tips For Colorwork:

When crocheting the colorwork, the yarn will be carried along the back in the fair isle style. Try to not carry a color for more than 3 stitches so your floats aren’t too long. You can catch/trap the yarn behind a stitch to keep the floats consistent.

To read more about colorwork please visit: Ways To Colorwork In Crochet

How to read the colorwork instructions:

In the colorwork section, Color A will be abbreviated as (A), and Color B as (B). Example: (B) x 5 = with Color B ssc the next 5 stitches The chart will be worked from right to left for each round and repeated until the end of the round.

8 Stitch Repeat for Colorwork – Written Instructions

The rest of the stitches for the colorwork portion will be worked as SSC, not in the established stitch pattern. The following instructions will be for an 8-stitch repeat.

Rnd 1:

(A) x 8

Rnd 2:

(A) x 4, (B) x 1, (A) x 3

Rnd 3:

(A) x 4, (B) x 1, (A) x 3

Rnd 4:

(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 2

Rnd 5:

(A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1

Rnd 6:

(A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1

Rnd 7:

(A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 1

Rnd 8:

(A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1

Rnd 9:

(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 2

Rnd 10:

(A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1

Rnd 11:

(A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1

Rnd 12:

(A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 1

Rnd 13:

(A) x 4, (B) x 1, (A) x 3

Rnd 14:

(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 2

Rnd 15:

(A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1

Rnd 16:

(A) x 2, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1

Rnd 17:

(A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 1

Rnd 18:

(A) x 4, (B) x 1, (A) x 3

Rnd 19:

(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 2

Rnd 20:

(B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 2

Rnd 21:

(A) x 8

Rnd 22:

(B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 3

Rnd 23:

(A) x 4, (B) x 1, (A) x 3

Rnd 24:

(B) x 1, (A) x 7

Rnd 25:

(B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 3

8 Stitch Repeat for Colorwork – Chart Instructions

6 Stitch Repeat for Colorwork – Written Instructions

Rnd 1:

(A) x 6

Rnd 2:

(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 2

Rnd 3:

(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 2

Rnd 4:

(A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1

Rnd 5:

(A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2

Rnd 6:

(A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2

Rnd 7:

(A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1

Rnd 8:

(B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2

Rnd 9:

(A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1

Rnd 10:

(A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2

Rnd 11:

(A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2

Rnd 12:

(A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1

Rnd 13:

(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 2

Rnd 14:

(A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1

Rnd 15:

(A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2

Rnd 16:

(A) x 1, (B) x 2, (A) x 1, (B) x 2

Rnd 17:

(A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 3, (B) x 1

Rnd 18:

(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 2

Rnd 19:

(A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1

Rnd 20:

(B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1, (B) x 1, (A) x 1

Rnd 21:

(A) x 6

Rnd 22:

(B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2

Rnd 23:

(A) x 3, (B) x 1, (A) x 2

Rnd 24:

(B) x 1, (A) x 5

Rnd 25:

(B) x 1, (A) x 2, (B) x 1, (A) x 2

6 Stitch Repeat for Colorwork – Chart Instructions

Ribbed Cuff

For the ribbing go down to the 2.5mm hook.

Row 1:

Ch 11, sc BLO in the second ch from the hook, sc BLO in next 2 (9) sts, sl st 2 sts from the top of the sock, turn. 10 Sts

Row 2:

Skip 2 sl sts from the sock top, sc BLO remaining in row, turn. 10 Sts

Row 3:

Ch 1, sc BLO across sts in row, sl st 2 sts from the top of the sock, turn. 10 Sts

Repeats:

Repeat Row 2-3 all the way around the top of the sock to create the ribbing. Either slip stitch in the blo of the last row to the loops of the first row to join, or fasten off and seam with a tapestry needle. 10 Sts

How to Crochet The Colorwork Sock Heel

Rnd 1:

Using the 3.5 mm crochet hook, attach yarn to one of the corner sts, ssc in first, place marker in this stitch, ssc in each stitch across until next corner (half of the heel sts), rotate and continue working in the top of the heel sts, ssc in first and place st marker. ssc in remaining sts. Chain + Skipped sts from Heel Split

Rnd 2:

*ssc in next, move up the st marker, ssc2tog, ssc until 2 sts before next marker, ssc2tog*; repeat from * to * around. Decreased 4 sts

Repeats:

Repeat round 2 until 10-14 sts remain. Fasten off and seam remaining sts together.

Finishing the Crochet Sock

Weave in any remaining ends. If there are gaps by the heel split, use tail ends to close the holes. If needed, block your socks by laying them flat or using a sock blocker.

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