If you have never made a crochet sock before, the Simple and Best Crochet Sock Pattern is for you. I’ve spent months working on this sock and the instructions to get the best fit. I’ve also written a detailed post on socks, with a free printable sock size chart, check out How To Size Crochet Socks
Where To Purchase The Ad-Free Downloadable PDF:
Want to work with this stitch and bulky weight yarn? I’ve got the quick & easy Bulky Crochet Socks that are just for you.
Love this crochet stitch? Check out these patterns that use this stitch pattern:
What are the benefits of a Toe-Up Sock?
Have you ever crocheted something and run out of yarn before completing it? By working a sock pattern from the toe up, it helps eliminate this nightmare. You can simply stop the sock at the length after the heel when you are about halfway through your yarn.
The other benefit is you can try on the sock as you go. This is amazing to get the best fit possible. This way adjustments can be determined and made as you crochet. No one wants a sock that doesn’t fit well.
The Best Yarn For This Sock Pattern
I’ve carefully curated the yarn for this pattern. Don’t be afraid of sock weight yarns for crochet. The finer yarn uses stitches you can absolutely do and creates a flexible crochet fabric that’s comfortable to wear.
I’ve really enjoyed working with WeCrochet Stroll Tonal for these socks. With its blend of merino wool and nylon, it’s the perfect stretch for socks. The natural marbling of color with this yarn is fun to watch dance across your hook as you crochet. These socks also look great in other options of yarns and colors too. Here are some substitutes I recommend:
Stroll (75% Fine Superwash Merino Wool, 25% Nylon)
Hawthrone Kettle Dye (80% Fine Superwash Highland Wool, 20% Nylon Fingering)
Hawthorne Speckle (80% Fine Superwash Highland Wool, 20% Nylon, Fingering)
And for those who might be allergic to wool try:
Comfy Fingering (75% Pima Cotton, 25% Acrylic Fingering)
Simple & Best Crochet Sock Video:
Supplies for the Crochet Sock:
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Size 3.5mm & 2.5mm Hooks, or hook to obtain gauge
WeCrochet Stroll Tonal
75% Fine Superwash Merino Wool, 25% Nylon, 462 yds/100g
Colorways in images: Purlescent, Seashell
Ankle Socks (250yds/228m), Mid Calf Socks 375yds/343m) – 1 Hank
Over the Knee Socks (775yds/709m) – 2 Hanks
blo – back loop only
ch – chain
est st pat – established stitch pattern
rnd – round
sc – single crochet
ssc – split single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
20 sts x 25 rows = 4×4 inches in established stitch pattern, see notes.
The stitches per inch is 5
This sock is meant to be crocheted for a custom fit to your foot. This sock can be tried on and adjusted as you go.
Instructions are for adult women’s sizes. The chart below is for referencing sock lengths for different sizes.
Since this is worked continuously, it is helpful to place a stitch marker on the first stitch of each row.
These crochet socks use a fun stitch combination and are worked from toe-up. The heel is an ‘afterthought heel’ where we create an opening for the heel area and come back to work the heel last.
The established stitch pattern (est. st pat) is worked across an even number of stitches as follows: sc 1 in the blo, ssc next; repeat for number of stitches needed.
Split Single Crochet (ssc): also known as the waistcoat stitch.
This stitch is worked as single crochet but where the hook is inserted is the only difference. The hook will be inserted between the ‘V’ of the stitch.
Insert hook between the legs of the stitch (on the back of work the hook should be under the horizontal bar and between the upside-down ‘V’ shape as well), yarn over, pull up a loop to the height of a single crochet, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook. Keep your hands loose and comfortable. If your hands are starting to hurt, then the tension of the stitch is too tight. When entering the stitch, pull up the loop a bit more than you normally would, it will give the ‘V’ more space for the next round and make working the ssc comfortable.
How to Get A Custom Sock Fit:
This sock is meant to be crocheted for a custom fit to your foot. This sock can be tried on and adjusted as you go. If trying on the sock is not possible, or you are making these socks for a friend, measure the foot to determine how many stitches/rows will be needed in each section for the best fit. Each measurement below should be taken while standing, except for C.
A: Circumference for Leg:
Measure the topmost part of your leg, the thickest part, and where you would like the height of the sock.
B: Height of Leg:
From where you took measurement A to the top of the heel.
C: Circumference of Foot:
Measure where your foot is thickest. The actual measurement of the finished sock will be about 1/2 to 1 inch less than this measurement.
Measure from the bottom of your toes to about 1 inch before the heel.
Learn More About Sizing Socks
Want to really dive into getting the best-sized sock? Head on over to this post on How To Size Crochet Socks for even more information including a FREE downloadable sock measurement chart.
Crochet Sock Written Instructions
Toe of Sock and Instep
Rnd 1: Using 3.5 mm hook, working inside the Magic Ring sc 8, pull ring closed, do not join as this will be worked continuously. Place stitch marker in first stitch and move up each round. 8 sts
Rnd 2: 2 ssc in each st around. 16 sts
Rnd 3: ssc in each st around. 16 sts
Rnd 4: 2 ssc in first st, ssc in next, 2 ssc in next, ssc in next; repeat from * to * around. 24 sts
Rnd 5: ssc in each st around. If making a baby/child size skip to round 10. 24 sts
Rnd 6: 2 ssc in first st, ssc in next 2 sts, 2 ssc in next, ssc in next 2 sts; repeat from * to * around. 32 sts
Rnd 7: ssc in each st around. For smaller foot circumferences increasing may stop here, or increase less on the next round. 32 sts
Rnd 8: 2 ssc in first st, ssc in next 3 sts, 2 ssc in next, ssc in next 3 sts; repeat from * to * around. 40 sts
Rnd 9: ssc in each st around. 40 sts
Rnd 10: ssc in first, blo sc in next, ssc in next, blo sc in next; repeat from * to * around.
This round creates the established stitch pattern. 40 sts
Repeats: Repeat Round 10 until the sock reaches about 1 1/2” from the heel, it’s best to try it on and add or remove rows if needed. This creates the Instep, measurement D.
Please Note: This is a great time to customize the sock to your foot size, this example is for a foot circumference of 8 inches. Remember these will stretch a little as worn so it should be a little snug, but if it starts to feel too tight add increases by placing 3ssc into one stitch on each side. Don’t be afraid to change the stitch count for your foot. 40 sts
Rnd 1: Please note: this gusset is following the stitch counts from the example sock in the video, it’s okay if your gusset stitch count is different. 3 ssc in first, work 19 sts in est st pat (or half the stitches in the round); repeat from * to * around. 44 sts
Rnd 2-3: Work est st pat in each st around. 44 sts
Rnd 4: *3 ssc in first, work 21 sts in est st pat (or half the stitches in the round) *; repeat from * to * around. 48 sts
Rnd 5-6: Work in the est st pat around. 48 sts
It’s perfectly fine if your stitch count is more or less, it simply needs to be an even number of stitches.
Slit the Sock for the Heel
Rnd 1: This round will make space for the heel to work later.
Ch 24 (or half the stitch count), skip 24 (or half the stitch count), work the remaining sts in est st pattern. 48 sts
Top of Sock & adjusting for different heights
Desired Rounds: Please Note: For the first round across the chain sts, sc sts will be worked.
For ankle socks, work in the est st pat for 6 rounds.
For all other heights continue to work in the established stitch pattern until the desired height. When working up the calf area, more stitches will need to be added as the circumference of the leg increases. Increase by placing 3ssc sts into one ssc stitch as often as needed. I like to hide my increases on the inside of the sock leg. 48 sts
For the ribbing go down to the 2.5mm hook. For ankle socks ch 4, for calf and over-the-knee socks ch 11. 3 (10) sts
Rnd 1: Sc BLO in the second ch from the hook, sc BLO in next 2 (9) sts, sl st 2 sts from the top of the sock, turn. 3 (10) sts
Rnd 2: Skip 2 sl sts from the sock top, sc BLO remaining in row, turn. 3 (10) sts
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc BLO across sts in row, sl st 2 sts from the top of the sock, turn. 3 (10) sts
Repeats: Repeat Row 2-3 all the way around the top of the sock to create the ribbing. Either slip stitch in the blo of the last row to the loops of the first row to join, or fasten off and seam with a tapestry needle. 3 (10) sts
How to Crochet The Sock Heel
Rnd 1: Using the 3.5 mm crochet hook, attach yarn to one of the corner sts, ssc in first, place marker in this stitch, ssc in each stitch across until next corner (half of the heel sts), rotate and continue working in the top of the heel sts, ssc in first and place st marker. ssc in remaining sts. Chain + Skipped sts from Heel Split
Rnd 2: ssc in next, move up the st marker, ssc2tog, ssc until 2 sts before next marker, ssc2tog; repeat from * to * around. Decreased 4 sts
Repeats: Repeat round 2 until 10-14 sts remain.
Fasten off and seam remaining sts together.
Finishing the Crochet Sock
Weave in any remaining ends. If there are gaps by the heel split use tail ends to close the holes. Block your socks if needed by laying flat or using a sock blocker.
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